The Teaching Rocks

“My first visit to the petroglyphs was in the early 1960s while vacationing at the family cottage on Stoney Lake near Lakefield.”

On a cool summer day, our favorite family adventure drive was along the rugged Peterborough Lumber Road, which had been recently pushed through the hinterlands from the village of Apsley to the west end of Stoney Lake. Along the way we used to count the deer and stop for a picnic along the shores of one of the many small scenic lakes in this near wilderness area. One day my grandmother told us she heard about a fantastic rock carving site that could be found following a rough trail starting near the eastern end of that logging road. So off we went with a sketch map she had acquired to try to find this site. We located the weak trail and hiked it for several kilometres, over rocky ridges, past beaver ponds and through mixed forests; occasionally losing the route.

Finally, after almost giving up, we arrived at a big open area in a forest of solid quartzite bedrock. Carved into this white rock were hundreds of mysterious figures of many types and sizes. Some such as turtles, people, birds, snakes and canoes were easily recognizable; others were abstract. Although I was only a child, I knew this had to be something profound. It seemed that those carvings must tell a story about life from long ago. I’ll never forget that visit to that remote site; the mystery, the setting and the sense of timelessness in those figures. I soon found out that these ancient carvings are called “petroglyphs” and were carved by First Nations people about 1,200 years ago. I’ve been back many times since, most recently in the fall of 2002, to visit the interpretive centre there.

“Although I was only a child, I knew this had to be something profound. It seemed that those carvings must tell a story about life from long ago.”

Not long after that first childhood visit, several articles in the Peterborough Examiner resulted in many people discovering and exploring the petroglyph site. By 1967 the outstanding significance of this art carving collection was established. In fact, it is now known to be the largest concentration of Aboriginal rock carvings in North America! The Petroglyphs and the unique ecosystem around them needed some kind of protection. A provincial park with controlled road access was established in 1976 as the first step to fulfilling this need.

Since then much more has been achieved in Petroglyphs Provincial Park, to better protect, enhance and interpret the carvings and protect the surrounding environment. For instance in 1985 the “glyph” (rock carving) site was enclosed in a large glass-walled building with specific climate controls to ensure the carvings are protected against weathering and acidic precipitation. The architecture of the building was designed to maintain the integral connection between nature and the petroglyphs. This is one of only two rock art sites in the world completely enclosed by a building. The other is in Russia.

Since 1985 Ontario Parks staff, working closely with the Curve Lake First Nation, have been “on site” to assist visitors and to help them better understand the carvings and culture of the people who made them.

The Curve Lake First Nation is the recognized caretaker of the petroglyphs. It is considered a scared location by the Aboriginal people. As such, the Curve Lake Nation conducts ceremonies there that have been traditions for generations. Both the rock and the carvings are recognized by the Native people as a living body possessed with spirit. It is thought that these “teaching rocks,” known by First Nation people as Kinomagewapkong, listen, feel and understand life. To protect the spirit essence of Kinomagewapkong, Native elders have respectfully requested that the visitors not take photographs while at the site. They believe that camera and video use gradually steals the spirit of the rock.

For those who have not yet visited this park, you can be assured of a rewarding day there. For others who may not have been there recently, make sure to return as there is a new and outstanding interpretive centre that opened in the fall of 2002 called the “Learning Place.” This multi-million dollar complex is located a short walking distance from the original petroglyph building. Here the story of the teaching rocks is movingly expressed through the eyes of First Nations people. The interactive educational exhibits are designed to allow the visitor to have a truly spiritual experience. As well as interpreting the 900 carvings at the petroglyph site, the “Learning Place” also has exhibits of other Native rock art sites in the province. These include many “pictographs,” which are similar to petroglyphs except that they are rock paintings not carvings. The common thread is the First Nations philosophy that the messages in the petroglyphs and other rock art sites are for all nations and are lessons that can be learned only from direct experience.

The displays are self-guiding, but formal and informal guided tours are also available. Knowledgeable park staff are always available.

There is a large fireside lounge at the centre and an Ontario Parks store with a range of First Nations and parks products for sale.

Bring the family and explore Petroglyphs Provincial Park and the new “Learning Place”. The park is fascinating for both children and adults. It also offers a unique opportunity to learn about the culture of our First Nations people. There are some very nice hiking trails in the park, including a half-day hike to High Falls. Day-use picnic tables, interpretive trails and viewpoints are available at scenic McGinnis Lake.

Petroglyphs, located 55-km northeast of Peterborough is a day-use park, so no camping is available there. It is open seven-days-a-week from early May until Thanksgiving Monday. Silent Lake Provincial Park, a short drive north, and Emily Provincial Park to the south are good camping options. There are also a number of private campgrounds in the vicinity.

Doug Hamilton is a free-lance photographer, and a frequent contributor to Family Camping Magazine. For ideas and tips about planning a memorable camping adventure check out Family Camping magazine’s website at www.familycampingmagazine.com